CHARACTER: Med immigrant meets inland heat
Beyond oral and nasal delights lies a deeper curiosity, how would the newcomer fare with extreme heat some 10 degrees hotter than home in the Med. Its DNA hasn’t evolved with an irrigation dependency, instead relying on evening mists from the Thau Lagoon. So far, with the help of oyster shell strewn in the trenches and oyster sacks holding straw mulch, it’s thrived. Big bunches of tightly-packed berries in weighty pendula pulled by gravity. And by the way, its name derives from this trait.
The wine opens with a huge floral fruity nose—green melons, apples and wet-paddock grasses. First chew the oyster, then sip the wine as the buttery lemony magic embraces the succulent creamy coating of a voluptuous Moonlight Flat oyster. Minutes later, the sip triggers a second wave of oyster reminiscence which lingers in sensory suspension.
We’re often regaled with special blends for oysters, or heroic bubbles for oysters, in which dominant characters eclipse the central actor. They miss the point. The wine should not be the Mona Lisa but rather frame our Mona oyster. Winemaker Anthony D’Onise nailed this during the ABC Landline program saying: “our piquepoul doesn’t throw up a single dominant flavour leading the charge, distracting from the oyster. Instead it gives a subtle charming citrusy background which give focus to the central oyster…”.
Professional wine pundits agree. Australian Gourmet Traveller’s wine guru enthused “… it was an astonishing match—as well as having a delicate lemony acidity, [it] also has a fair amount of richness and texture that lingers as a satisfying grape pulpy flavour after you’ve swallowed the oyster”.